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147625970aa1eebd09a204bc4c3660cb
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Title
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Details
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Title
A name given to the resource
Film Costumes
Costume - Film
Cataloguing of costumes for Film
Location
The location of the interview
507-6-4-L A (back) (stole) / 507-5-2 (dress)
Sex
Female
Location Audit Date
Feb 2022
Actor
Marilyn Monroe
Character
Sugar Kane (Kumulchek)
Film Title
Some Like It Hot
Studio
United Artists
Production Year
Year the Film produced
1959
Time Period
Time period in which Film set
1929
Costume Designer
Orry- Kelly
Additional Notes
When Some Like It Hot was released in 1959, the Orry-Kelly costumes offended so many puritan moviegoers that it prompted a statewide ban in Kansas and an “adult entertainment” restriction in Memphis, Tennessee. The reason? The film’s plot is centered around the taboo of two men cross-dressing, and star Marilyn Monroe wears a dress that is so revealing that it stops just short of granting the actress her first nude scene. Monroe’s performance as Sugar Kane, the band’s gold-digging singer/ukulele player, is often cited as her best role. Her acting talents are spot on, but when she turns on the patented Monroe charm and smolders through a few musical numbers, it’s impossible not to goggle at her physical attributes, too. Thanks to the skills of top costume designer Orry-Kelly, audiences didn’t notice the actress was pregnant or apparently mind that she was 10 years older than her character’s 24 years. In its review of the film, the New York Times admitted “[Monroe’s] figure simply cannot be overlooked.” In his 2003 book The Great Movies, Roger Ebert describes a scene in which Monroe drops jaws while singing “I Wanna Be Loved By You” in a nude-colored cocktail dress as, “a striptease in which nudity would have been superfluous.” The dress in question looks, at first glance, like Monroe is not wearing a dress at all. Made of nude silk, dyed to match her skin and a sheer souffle from the breasts up and a few silver and white beads strategically placed in order to squeeze past the strict Production Code.. Monroe wears no bra, and the back of the dress falls into a deep V that stops just in the nick of time. Movie costumes often use hidden padding and weights to give the wearer a perfect shape, but this dress covers as little of Monroe’s famous shape as was legally possible. According to co-star Curtis, Orry-Kelly fit Monroe’s dresses by tying a string around her legs just where her bottom ended so he knew exactly where the fabric should cling and then sewed the garment onto her. In the end, the Code refused to approve the movie, but the film was a hit at the box office anyway. (The Code was phased out by the current ratings system in 1968, thanks in part to the popularity of supposedly risqué movies like "Some Like it Hot").
Inventory Photos
YES
Exhibition Photos
YES
Photos B/W
20-BEST / 7- BEST (body double) / 6- GOOD (contact sheet)
Screen Grabs / Internet Pulls
3-FAIR
Color Photo
6-GOOD
Lobby Card
NO
Poster
NO
Purchase Date
Feb-96
Purchased From
Bill Sutton
Purchase Price
46000
Estimated Value
1000000
Past Exhibitions
"The Art of Motion Picture Costume Design," The Fashion Institute of Design Merchandising, Los Angeles, February 19- April 18, 1996; "Marilyn by Moonlight," Takashimaya, Tokyo Japan, March 2-14, 2006; "Beauty and the Bead," Tropenmuseum, Amsterdam, The Netherlands, December 15, 2006- May 14, 2007; "Some Like It Haute," The Glenbow Museum, Calgary Canada, November 29, 2008- February 22, 2009; "Hollywood Costume," (V&A-2012-2013), (Melbourne 2013), (VMFA 2013-2014), (Phoenix MOA- 2014), (AMPAS 2014-2015); "Bendigo Art Gallery and Twentieth Century Fox present: Marilyn Monroe," Bendigo Art Gallery, Bendigo Australia, March 5, 2016- July 10, 2016.
Exhibition Notes / Requirements
Restoration work done by John David Ridge- 1999. Cara Varnell- 2012.
Dublin Core
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Identifier
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00332
Title
A name given to the resource
Marilyn Monroe as Sugar Kane (Kumulchek) in 'Some Like It Hot' Designed by Orry- Kelly
Format
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Film
Description
An account of the resource
Fitted 1920's style dress, with sheer fabric from the bust up, flesh colored silk from bust down with extremely low cut back, beaded heavily at bust area, ornamented with gold sequins in a wash pattern on silk areas with clear bead tassels, heart shaped cut on at rear surrounded by red beads and drops; swans down stole attached to chiffon backing.
Bibliographic Citation
A bibliographic reference for the resource. Recommended practice is to include sufficient bibliographic detail to identify the resource as unambiguously as possible.
"All Time Movie Favorites," Joel W. Finler, Octopus Books, 1977, pg. 136 (photo). "Hollywood Costume, Glamour! Glitter! Romance," Dale McConathy/ Diana Vreeland, Balance House Book, 1976, pg. 237 (photo); "Immortals of the Screen," Ray Stuart, Bonanza Books, 1965, pg. 179 (photo); "Screen World." 1960, Daniel Blum, Chilton Company, pg. 30. (photo).
1950's
Comedy
Music
Orry-Kelly
Romance
United Artists